Firstly, unless otherwise noted, all pictures included in this blog post are courtesy of Nicky James Kelvin.
At the beginning of my time here, our program took a trip to the Negev Desert. The hikes were incredible, and a few of us decided we wanted more. During this first trip, we hiked during the day and spent our nights at a kibbutz called Sde Boker. We had all of our meals catered by the kibbutz and were able to take showers and use toilets at our leisure. The hikes on this trip were beautiful, but mostly flat and void of obstructions. Our wonderful guide let us know that if we were interested in further hikes or camping trips, we should contact him for trail information!
We called our guide at the end of March and, as promised, he showered us with a plethora of information about various hikes through the desert. The one we chose also began at Sde Boker and took us to a waterfall oasis called Ein Akev. My fantastic madrich Itzik provided us with camping supplies we hadn't planned for- a tent, little kerosine stove, and sleeping accouterments. At this point the idea of camping really began to set in. I love hiking and being out doors. During the day. At night I prefer to sleep in my own bed (if my own bed is not available, a hotel or someone else's bed will suffice). I was assured by my friends that I would be fine. They would take care of me.
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Arriving at Sde Boker, eager to begin our journey! (From right: Nicky, Me, Matan) |
Friday, April 1st, 2011- myself and two others from my program, Matan and Nicky, set out from our home in Tel-Aviv for the middle of nowhere. Our bags packed with supplies (me with my brand new big girl hiking back pack!), we left to catch a bus to the train station at 6am. From there we took an hour and a half train ride to Be'er Sheva, just north of our destination. Here we stocked up on food and other provisions. We boarded a bus to Sde Boker, bought twelve two liter bottles of water (how we fit them all in our packs, I will never know) and began our hike down into the maktesh (refer to first blog for description). At the very beginning of our hike there were signs with different trails and their names. Our trail was called "
המעלה" "The Ascent". Ok, so ascent means up- that's fine. Well, whoever marks these trails needs to be a bit more specific. "The Ascent" was a harsh incline- FOR AN HOUR. It was difficult, but I put away my complaining and excuses and trucked it up to the top. Getting to the top of the ascent felt amazing. The hard parts were over! Or so I thought...
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Matan and Nick going over the map and picking out trails |
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The beginning of "The Ascent". This picture does it no justice, but you are able to see a bit of the trail in the middle. |
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At the top of the ascent. Happy to be done! (Photo: Matan Har) |
We reached the top, and out of the mist appears a giant tent made of wood, sheet metal, and tarps. We had a short group meeting and decided to check it out. Inside the tent was a woman sitting next to a small open fire. She told us her name was Magdalene, poured us some sweet tea and began making laffa and labeneh. While she was cooking, she told us stories of her life and her family. She spoke Hebrew, Arabic, and English. None fluently, and often using all three languages in a single sentence. Bedouin women are normally sheltered from the world and kept covered. She explained to us that she knew life was hard. However, no matter if we were white, black, brown, blue, christian, jewish, muslim, or hindu, we were all children of the world and we were all her children. We began calling her Mama Magdalene. She told us to call our mothers and tell them we had a second mother in the desert.
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Mama Magdalene in her kitchen |
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Tossing dough for laffa |
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Laffa and labeneh with zatar |
Eventually we said goodbye to our host and continued on our way. We were headed for Ein Akev, and all desperately wanted to arrive. The views along this hike were unbelievable. we were hiking inside a giant canyon as before, but this time we were climbing over boulders and hiking up walls of rock. We were earning every inch we covered.
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Matan in front of a trail marker. |
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Nicky looking out over the maktesh. To the far right is the mountain we climbed the following day. |
Around mid-day, we arrived at our destination sweaty, covered in dirt and ready to relax. It was too hot and dry this time of year for the waterfall, but seeing the pool of water in the middle of the desert was like a dream. We put on our bathing suits and got ready to swim.
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Waiting for the boys to come swim |
Next to the water was cool and breezy. It's the last environment I ever expected to encounter in the desert. The boys put on their bathing suits and started climbing up the wall of the waterfall. "What are you guys doing?!?!" I was terrified. "We are at a waterfall in the middle of the desert- we are jumping off this cliff!" well, there was no way I was climbing up there, I sat at the bottom and took pictures of them jumping into the water. The pool was about ten meters deep, so there was no danger of hitting the bottom, but I held my breath every time they jumped. After a while, the area began to get crowded. Matan swam over to me and said, "your turn, let's go" No freaking way! I was not jumping off a cliff just because all of my friends were doing it. Well, before I knew it I was sitting on the ledge at the top of the wall receiving what turned out to be a 20 minute pep talk. I was so scared. (sorry dad).
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At the top of the wall- "the pep talk"
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I couldn't do it. But more than that, I couldn't get up and walk back down. I was already up there, I needed to get my ass into that water.
came up to a standing ovation from the people sitting around the pool. and that was that.
After spending a few hours at the waterfall, it began to get dark and we decided to head to the camp ground. We were all exhausted and hungry. The camp ground was close by and we began to set up our tent so we could have dinner.
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Walking to the camp ground |
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Matan struggling to open the tent while Nicky catches up on some text messages. |
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Men, proud of their work. |
We pitched our tent and set up our sleeping arrangements for the evening. Afterwards we decided we were very hungry. We pulled out the small stove and realized shortly afterwards we had no idea how to use it. We saw some guys near by who were also at the waterfall earlier that day. We walked over to ask if they could help us, and they invited us to eat dinner with them. We pulled out our soup and hotdogs, thinking we were eating a pretty gourmet dinner for the middle of nowhere. We started eating our dinner, and roasting our hot dogs on sticks, while the boys we were sitting with pulled out fresh tomatoes, garlic, onions, and ground beef. They cooked everything up with pasta and shared with us their pasta bolognese. It was delicious.
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roasting some delicious dogs. |
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Shai, Nachshon and their gourmet meal. |
Shortly after eating, I realized that for the first time all day, I had to pee. Obviously there would be a bathroom somewhere. Not a chance. One of the boys we were sitting with handed me his flashlight- "good luck..." I didn't know how to pee outside, and I still don't. It is impossible. It had me, for the first time in my life, wishing I was a boy. Sleeping in a tent was nothing short of miserable. It was freezing cold, and extremely uncomfortable. I do not recommend it. However waking up at sunrise to pee (yet again) was beautiful. The beginning of the second day consisted of packing up our materials and heading back to the waterfall with our new friends. We ate breakfast there, did a little more swimming (our only shower for those two sweaty days) and tried to decide on our hike for the day.
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Packing up (Photo: Matan Har) |
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The second day at Ein Akev. |
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Making breakfast (Photo: Matan Har) |
The boys from the night before invited us to hike with them. They were going to hike back to Sde Boker which involved a small mountain and would take about 4 hours. It sounded perfect. We set off from the waterfall and hiked on mostly flat desert for about two hours. Then, out of nowhere came the "small mountain". We took a water break at the base and I apologized to the group in advance for holding them up. On top of my extremely mild case of sports induced asthma, I am horrendously out of shape. This was going to be no small feat for me. At the beginning of our climb, the boys were stopping when I did about ever hundred feet. After a while, the got sick of me and kept going without me. Matan started counting my steps, "ok, a hundred more steps, the we can stop again" followed by "250 more steps then we will be at the top, you got this". I would not have made it to the top without him.
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At the base of the small mountain |
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Finally making it to the top! |
The wind at the peak of the mountain was unbelievable. Our things started blowing away. We sat for a snack and finished what remained of our food. The views from the top were unreal. We finished and started hiking down the other side. The rest of the hike was over and through giant rocks. We walked along the edge of a cliff and finally down into the canyon for the final leg of our trip.
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Walking down the opposite side |
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Our trail is the little white line on the side of the rock and down in the canyon
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Once again, I thought the worst was over. Boy was I wrong. "The Ascent" was hard, the mountain was really tough, but it was nothing compared to what we were in for next. Our trail took us to a road which i assumed would take us to Sde Boker. It looked flat from what I could see, and I was blissfully unaware that we had yet to hike out of the canyon. We came to a point in the road where we could see a hill in the distance in front of us. It looked huge to me. One of the boys we were walking with turned to me and said "when we were in the army, they used to make us climb this as punishment". I laughed at kept walking once again unaware that our trail led straight to that hill.
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Boys walking towards the incline. |
We began walking up, knew at once I was way out of my league. This kind of hiking was for the pros. I was hungry, exhausted, dirty, and couldn't walk another step. Once again, Matan started counting. "500 steps, then we can stop". It helped for a little while, until we reached what I thought was the top. We turned the corner and saw that the hill continued up for another few hundred feet. It was unbearable. making it to the top of that hill proves that if I don't have any other choice, I can do anything. We got to the top sweaty and ready to pass out. We could see Sde Boker in the distance and couldn't wait to get back. As we approached the kibbutz, we realized there was a twenty foot high barbed wire fence around the entire property. We had hiked this far and they were going to make us walk around to the main road to get back in. So, in good Israeli fashion, we broke the rules and jumped the fence.
I knew someone was going to catch us and kick us out or arrest us, but no one said a thing. We walked through the streets with our packs and hiking gear and no one looked at us twice. We found some real bathrooms with real toilets, grabbed some overpriced snacks at the gift shop, and laid down to wait for the bus. Needless to say we all fell asleep on the bus.
It was an incredible weekend, full of things that I have never done before and most likely will never do again. I slept in a tent, peed outside, jumped off a cliff, hiked up a mountain, and broke into a kibbutz. More camping trips are in the works, and I can't wait.
Photos that didn't make it-
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Mama Magdalene wishing us well |
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Some Israelis on our trail pulled literally an entire watermelon out of their pack. Then shared it with us! |
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Talking to my dad. He's saying "you're where? what? why???" |
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A few of our water bottles... |
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Really super outdoorsy |
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It was shabbat, so we lit candles |
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Some serious wind at the top of the mountain |
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Climbing down the other side! |
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To the tombs! Back at Sde Boker (also David Ben Gurion's grave site) |
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amen. |